Hello fellow thread lovers! Karen Miller of Redbird Quilt Co. with you today to share some troubleshooting advice for your day to day machine challenges.
Working with the team at Aurifil has given me the opportunity to learn how their threads are used across a wide variety of projects. It has also exposed me to many of the challenges quilters and makers encounter every day. Today I’d like to share a few common things to check if you’re experiencing thread breaks while machine stitching.
Is your shop, group, or guild looking for insightful, inspiring, and educational information about thread? Consider booking a virtual or in-person program with one of our certified Aurifilosophers. Learn more about Aurifilosophy and connect with an educator here.
Happy stitching!
FIRST THINGS FIRST: Have you cleaned, oiled, and re-threaded the machine?
Before jumping into the troubleshooting steps below, take a minute to dust, clean, and oil your machine (per manufacturers guidelines). If you’re like me, you’re using quilt shop quality 100% cotton fabric, 100% cotton or wool batting, and 100% Egyptian cotton Aurifil thread in the top and bobbin. All these natural fibers can lead to lint bunnies in your machine. Protect your machine investment and set yourself up for success by keeping your machine in tip-top condition.
Also, before making any machine adjustments, completely remove the thread and rethread the machine with the presser foot raised. A thread that has slipped outside a guide or tension disc is one of the most common causes of breakage.
SPOOL PREPARATION: For large spools of Aurifil thread
Start by checking the spool base. If it’s positioned too tightly against the thread, it can restrict thread delivery and lead to intermittent breakage. Loosen the bottom base exposing a slight bit of air between the base and the thread.
THREAD DELIVERY: Draw the thread over the top of the spool
All Aurifil cotton thread is cross-wound onto the spools. Cross-wound spools expect to be positioned such that the thread will be drawn over the top of the spool, NOT from the side. This positioning adds an additional twist to the thread as it travels through the machine thread guides.
If your machine has a vertical spool pin, draw the thread straight up to a guide directly above the pin. If you’re working with a horizontal pin, the thread is generally drawn to the left over the top of the spool. With large spools and cones, it may be convenient to use a mug or an external thread stand.
HORIZONTAL SPOOL POSITIONING: Minimize the spool cap size
Those fancy machines of ours often come with several different spool cap sizes. Caps can have burrs or snags on them, wreaking havoc with our fine cotton thread. It’s important to choose a cap that will not interfere with the thread coming off the spool. Ideally, choose a thread cap that is the same size as the spool opening.
BOBBIN THREAD: When using cotton on top, use cotton in the bobbin
Mixing thread types (and qualities) can sometimes affect stitch balance and tension. If you’re experiencing thread breakage or inconsistent tension, try matching your bobbin thread fiber to your top thread fiber as a troubleshooting step.
When using cotton thread on top, I always choose to use a cotton bobbin of the proper weight. In most cases, Aurifil Cotton 50wt/2ply thread works beautifully in the bobbin, regardless of what weight thread you’re using on top.
If you’re not sure what weight to use in the bobbin, be sure to review and download the handy Aurifil Thread Reference Card where you’ll find a wealth of information about needles, bobbins and uses for each weight of Aurifil.
BOBBIN THREAD: Using a pre-wound bobbin?
While some makers have success with quality pre-wound bobbins, they can occasionally behave differently than bobbins wound on your machine. The bobbin winding setup on your machine is tuned to wind bobbins at just the right tension for that machine. My advice: if you’re troubleshooting unexplained thread breakage, try winding a fresh bobbin of Aurifil Cotton 50wt/2ply on your own machine and compare the results.
NEEDLE CHOICES: Choose a NEW needle of the proper type and size
Choosing the right size and type of needle can make a world of difference to the outcome of a project. When using Aurifil Cotton 50wt/2ply thread top and bobbin for piecing and appliqué a Microtex Sharp needle, size 70/10 or 80/12 will work beautifully. When using heavier weights of Aurifil, choose a needle with a larger eye AND consider switching to a Topstitch or Quilting needle. These needle types have a groove down the front of the shaft, protecting the thread as it travels through layers of fabric, fusible, batting, and more.
If you’re not sure what size and type of needle to use, be sure to review and download the handy Aurifil Thread Reference Card (linked below) where you’ll find a wealth of information about needles, bobbins, and uses for each weight of Aurifil AND check out this great guest post from Schmetz for additional info.
TENSION: Tension set too high will continually break cotton thread
During machine manufacturing, tension is set to stitch through 2 layers of fabric using a 50wt/3ply thread. With today’s advanced threads and wide variety of available weights and ply, the “default”, “auto”, or factory setting isn’t always the best choice. If you are experiencing breaking or shredding, it’s often due to a top tension setting that is too high. Troubleshoot this setting by loosening the top tension setting. This is accomplished by selecting a lower number on your dial or digital setting.
Begin by lowering the tension by a whole number or two and testing the impact on a fabric sample. Choose a sample that closely represents the project materials you’ll be using. Once you’ve lowered the top tension, run through the sample again. If the thread no longer breaks or shreds, you’re on the right path.
Next, examine the quality of the stitch. If the bobbin thread is showing on top, continue to lower the top tension. If the top thread is showing on the bottom side, you’ll need to step-up or increase the top tension to bring the top thread to meet the bobbin thread in the center of the sandwich.
Tension— it’s a tug of war between the top and bottom thread. Playing with and conquering tension issues is one of the scariest yet most rewarding lessons of all time. Once you’ve tackled this challenge you’ll rest easier knowing you can do it anytime. Be sure to jot down what you started with, especially if your machine has analog settings. This way you’ll know how to set it back to “default”.
IN SUMMARY
Thread breakage is frustrating, but the solution is often a simple fix. Taking a few minutes to check your spool setup, thread path, bobbin, needle, and tension settings will have you back to stitching in no time. Every machine is different, and learning how your machine responds to different threads and settings is all part of the journey. I hope these tips help you spend less time troubleshooting and more time creating. Happy stitching!
ABOUT KAREN
Karen L. Miller, owner of Redbird Quilt Co. is Master Educator for Aurifil, USA, an Aurifilosopher, national educator, author, and cheerleader of all things free motion quilting. She launched Redbird Quilt Co. to share her love of appliqué and show others how free motion quilting on home sewing machines can bring their projects to life. Karen plays with all weights of Aurifil thread and openly contributes her knowledge and experience to the greater quilting community. When she’s not home enjoying her family and the multitude of songbirds that grace the Finger Lakes Region of NY, you’ll catch her traveling the countryside sharing her passion for quilting with Guilds and Shops alike.
If you’re interested in learning more about free motion quilting on home sewing machines be sure to check out Karen’s website, programs, tutorials, upcoming events and social media feeds. Subscribe to Karen’s Newsletter here.
